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1470-80 Italian Gamurra by ~Kathelyne:iconKathelyne:


©2007-2009 ~Kathelyne
Details
Submitted: October 26, 2007
File Size: 124 KB
Image Size: 124 KB
Resolution: 456×1492
Comments: 22
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Picture
Make: NIKON
Model: E3200
Shutter Speed: 10/370 second
F Number: F/2.8
Focal Length: 6 mm
ISO Speed: 50
Date Picture Taken: Oct 26, 2007, 8:10:10 PM

Artist's Comments

This is a 1470/80 Italian Gamurra, and I tried to do hair taping for the first time. A bit hard to do on your own at 6am!

I still need to sew up the front skirt seam (its hidden in the folds, but still need to sew it up so I can walk and run and not worry about it) and I need to hem the tops of the sleeves and attach lacing rings/points or whatever I'll do.

EDIT: Because I've remembered that I posted my progress on LJ and not here, I'll post what I'm wearing and how it's made.

My shift is the same one I used for my Flemish of the same time, A simple t-tunic shape with straight sleeves. [link]
My documentation for using my flemish one is here [link] (lady on the left) and here [link] and a bits and pieces from other places too!.

My hose are my dark green linen ones, and my garters are my woolen fingerlooped ones [link] . No idea if these are period for italy in this time, but I haven't had time to research it. If anyone knows, or knows where I might find evidence of what they did, please let me know!

Shoes are made by my dad. The shift, hose and shoes are the same as here [link]

The dress is made of the same linen that my friend used to make my light blue kirtle (also seen in the above pic) which I found in a remnants bin whil on holiday for $2.50 a metre.

The skirt is made of 12 trapezoid panels (like a right angle triangle with the tip cut off), sewn straight edge to bias edge. While this is based on an archaeological find, the find was from london and from an earlier period, so I won't claim that how the italians did it. The panels were rounded once sewn together. I skirt is knife pleated, and I measured every pleat, and there was some bad words said (in my head because mum was in the room) but I got it in the end.

The bodice was origionally made to have the waist at my lower rib, which is a fine length for this period. However, with the high neck (and prehaps a long torso from me? not sure) it looked freakishly long, and it looked like the waist was down round my hip area, and that my hips were smaller than my waist. It did show of my new smaller waist, and I toyed with the idea of leaving it. In the end, I was sensible and shortened the bodice, and then shortened it 2 inches more. I like the current length.

It does up with lacing cord seen here [link] sewn through little lacing rings (actually, they are meant for fishing, not sure what they use them for but are only $3 something for 12 [link] , the same as on my blue kirtle but arranged near the edge like this [link] . I found them like that here [link] and decided to do it that way.

The sleeves are normal straight sleeves, but lower than the elbow they were left open and only sewn at points, and the wrist closes with a hidden hook and eye. I know they used these later, but I'm not sure if they used them this early, however its easier than sewing myself into my sleeve, which I'm pretty sure IS period. The sleeves are pinned on at the top, but when I hem the top I'll lave them on at the top, leaving eht sidesand underam un-tied (yes, they did that back then.)

I think thats all :)

Oh, of course it is all handsewn. The pins I used I made my crushing off the ends of plastic pins and replacing them with pearls, which will do untill I can get some proper pins, the hair ribbon is sadly synthetic because I forgot to pick up some silk ribbon at the shops on friday (I went in and forgot I needed it), but all other cords/ties made by me.

More pics here [link] and at my LJ [link]
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Comments


Hmmmm.... you al;most look like Rapunzel except for your hair :)
Oh! that's so nice.
Nice job Kathlyne :D

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Website [link] I'm currently booked up until the end of August 2009. Please enquire for corsetry, costume and bridal commissions, I may be able to squeeze you in... ;)
Very pretty ^_^ That's such a flattering color on you, and I love the poufing on the lower arms. It's so clean and nice ^_^

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I'm Ifalna in the deviantART Cartoon Obsessions Crew!

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Thanks! Good thing I'm not rapunzel, wouldn't want someone climbing up my hair! Ouch! I knew a man with long hair and he used to let children swing on it!!!
Thank you! I'm really pleased how this looks, though it looks far nicer in a photo than close up as you can't see all the rushed sewing and so on
Thanks :) I love looking at stuff fininished, and known its all hand sewn my me (except the shoes, they were handsewn by dad). Even my hair was handsewn by me in this one, LOL
Thank you! Its a good thing I suit this colour, with the amount I have! I will be making an overdress out of it for another dress (an orange one) Any ideas what colour I should use for the overdress to wear with this one?
Oh, I'm horrible about that kind of thing ^^, I usually pair blues with darker or lighter blues, greys, silvers, and whites.

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